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New local co-op brings artisan bread, cured meats, beer and more directly to consumers

Community Supported Artisans connects community with local bakers, brewers, food producers

Fresh meats from Il Porcellino, freshly baked bread from Raleigh St. Bakery and a growler of beer from Call to Arms Brewing Co. will be offered in the brewery's Community Supported Artisans program starting in February 2017.
Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post
Fresh meats from Il Porcellino, freshly baked bread from Raleigh St. Bakery and a growler of beer from Call to Arms Brewing Co. will be offered in the brewery’s Community Supported Artisans program starting in February 2017.
Joe Vaccarelli
PUBLISHED: | UPDATED:

For years, Community Supported Agriculture has given people an opportunity to buy seasonal, fresh food directly from the farmers who produce it.

Three business owners in northwest Denver envisioned the acronym “CSA” differently, however. Just like a typical CSA, Community Supported Artisans of Denver is a way to pick up locally-made foods every week. But members of this CSA will pick up includes fresh-baked bread, cured meats, vinegar, preserves, hot sauce and even beer.

This CSA is the brainchild of Jesse Brookstein at Call to Arms Brewing Company, at 4526 Tennyson St. Call to Arms set up a hyper-local partnership with Raleigh Street Bakery (a mile to the north), Il Porcellino Salumi (just a few blocks down, on West 41st Avenue) and a rotation of 12 guest artisans over the course of the program that kicks off Feb. 13 and runs through May 1.

“We wanted to really showcase all these different artisans and show that we’re always working together with one another. I don’t think this happens in a lot of cities,” Brookstein said.

Up to 30 participants in the community who sign up will pick up packages Mondays the tap room at Call to Arms and receive an assortment of meats, breads, a 64-ounce growler of beer and an item from a different guest artisan. The cost is $600 for the 12-week period.

Each package is designed for two people to use throughout the week, and the hope is to provide the community a window into what is available should anyone seek out local businesses when shopping for food.

“I think it’s definitely a unique opportunity that gives people a chance to take a look at what’s available to them food-wise,” Il Porcellino Salumi co-owner Brian Albano said.

This is the second iteration of a CSA involving Call to Arms, Raleigh Street Bakery and Il Porcellino Salumi. Last summer, the three partnered with Denver’s Rebel Farm for a 12-week program. Seventeen participants signed up for that CSA.

The trio decided to cap this Community Supported Artisans go-round at 30 participants in order to keep the costs and work time down for the participating businesses to get their packages ready each week.

“We’re not trying to get a maximum amount of CSA members, we’re just getting a package together for the community,” Raleigh Street Bakery owner and baker David Kaminer said. “Really it’s about connecting people with this food they’re going to eat.”

Brookstein had an idea for the second CSA to run during winter after meeting so many local businesses at various events such as the Denver Flea and farmer’s markets and thinking of a way to blend each group’s creativity and build camaraderie between the businesses.

Guest artisan Kelly Schexnaildre, owner of Merfs Condiments, met Brookstein at a food show last year where they were both vendors. Schexnaildre makes an assortment of hot sauces and other condiments using local and organic ingredients. She said she believes the collaboration can be good for all businesses involved. (Hot sauces from Merfs will be in the March 13 bundle.)

“When we grow, we grow together and it ends up being better for everybody,” she said.

The participants will get to see some of that collaboration in the first week of the CSA — guest artisan WKND Chocolate will be part of the first bundle on Feb. 13, just in time for Valentine’s Day. Owner Lauren Heineck made a chocolate bar with apricots soaked in a Call to Arms beer for her contribution to the first week’s batch.

Heineck jumped at the chance to be part of the CSA and said she is dependent on community support to survive as a small business. She works under Colorado’s cottage law, which allows her to sell directly to consumers without inspection.

“I’m a sole proprietor, I can’t become more without the support of the community and the vendors involved in this,” she said.

Brookstein says the CSA isn’t the best way to make money in the long run, but as a business owner who claims to put the community first, it’s certainly a way to show that community that he’s serious about being a part of it. He hopes more businesses will see these partnerships and follow his lead.

“It’s easy to say we’re community driven, but really hard to do it,” Brookstein said. “We have to institute these programs and find the time.”


Community Supported Artisans of Denver
Dates Feb. 13 – May 1
Pick up goods between 4-8 p.m. Mondays at Call to Arms Brewing Company, 4526 Tennyson St.
Cost: $600 for 12 weeks.
For more information, visit calltoarmsbrewing.com/csa