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How to ‘farm’ like the First Nations

Hunting down wild potatoes is an opportunity to do so much more than gather food.

Kim Mahood

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In her new collection of essays, Wandering with Intent, award-winning artist and author Kim Mahood writes about her experience of cross-cultural relationships. In this edited extract, she reveals the importance of “hunting” the wild potato.

“Why don’t they cultivate the plants near the community, so they can dig them up when they want them?” David J asks. We have spent the afternoon looking for yams, walking and searching and digging with the two Walmajarri women who are my willing collaborators, always happy to induct visitors into the mysteries of Aboriginal culture.

Detail from Emily Kame Kngwarreye’s ‘Yam Story’, 1989. 

“Because that would take all the fun out of it,” I say. It’s the first response that leaps to mind, but when I think about it later, it seems to underline a fundamental aspect of the desert Aboriginal world. I could have offered more logical reasons that would have satisfied my friend. I could have explained that the common wild potato, or yam, Ipomoea costata, grows in particular soil types, and that it would be difficult to replicate the conditions in the stony ground near the community. I could have said that anything grown close to the community is at risk of being pillaged early by kids, dug up by dogs, or eaten by the resident camel or horse, and that it would be an invitation to subvert the good intentions of whichever kardiya has had the brainwave to streamline a practice that is about much more than gathering food. I could have drawn on the examples of many failed agricultural enterprises, and the explanations for why they failed.

I tease out what I mean by fun. There’s the social aspect, the gathering of whoever wants to spend the day out hunting. There’s the teaching element – the kids learning about so much more than how to find the yams and dig them up. On any given day, they might harvest some bush medicine, or some bush tomatoes on their prickly stems, or come across an opportunistic find of coolibah bark, which people burn and reduce to a fine white powder to mix with chewing tobacco. There’s the chance of finding a blackhead python basking beneath the warm surface of its burrow. There’s the escape from the pressures and tensions of community life into an elemental world underlaid by the traces of the ancestors making their ruthless way across the landscape. It’s a way for people to be alone in company, wandering singly or in loose pairs, the threads of relationship stretching and holding them as they spread apart into the quietude of hearing all that the country has to say.

The tuber of the wild potato grows some distance from the central stem, and is located by the crack it causes on the surface. 

It is interesting to bring people from my other life to visit this one. The people in this group are all friends and colleagues of mine who are artists, mostly sculptors. The three men are all called David. The plan is to see how, as artists, they interpret and are impacted by the desert and its people.

I have not foreseen how difficult it would be to stretch myself between the two worlds.

My usual pattern when I arrive is to spend the first couple of days in a state of ennui while my whitefella brain goes quiet, and my other self, the one that has grown and taken shape over the years, emerges from hibernation, stretches, inhales, and fills with the energy and pleasure of coming home. Instead, I have eight individuals who have invested great effort and a lot of money to get here, who are depending on me to manage and interpret the place and people for them.

The first visit to the community is daunting for my friends, who are viewing it through whitefella eyes — a first impression that is always about rubbish and dogs and disorder. I can’t see it that way any more. Instead, I see how the Boxer family have managed to extend the lawn they established last year until it has covered most of the ground between their houses and the dusty communal park. The Boxers are gardeners, not of food plants, but of flowers and trees and grass. They always ask me to bring flower seeds when I visit.

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The Johns clan have continued to accumulate cars in various states of dismantlement, raised on blocks made of overturned hundred-litre drums. There’s status attached to how many cars a family owns, no matter whether they go or not, and the Johns are way in front.

The Lulu clan at the block on the northern end of the community have planted bamboo and frangipani, and are managing to extend their patch of lawn, inch by incremental inch, to fill the space demarcated by a ring of tyres painted white and sunk upright into the ground. The car that Lulu purchased last year, the old 100 Series LandCruiser wagon that used to belong to the Indigenous Protected Area coordinator, is still functioning. She has bought many cars over the years, and they have usually only lasted a few months. But she seems to have established some ground rules for this one.

But all this is invisible to my friends, who stand around in polite discomfort in the little art centre, a self-managed enterprise that has survived the aspirations of several white co-ordinators and community managers.

We look at the paintings, the subtext on the Aboriginal side being the expectation that these well-heeled kardiya will buy some. This is not in the minds of my friends, who tell me later that they found the women impenetrable.

It’s a couple of days later that David J asks the question about cultivating wild potatoes. We have spent most of the day with Shirley and Evelyn. I’ve asked the women to show the visitors how to find and identify bush tucker and medicine, so they accompany us to the wild potato grounds, where there are signs of recent digging activity. The looping vines and heart-shaped dark-green leaves of the wild potato plants are easy to spot, and yams are a staple winter food in this part of the country. The tuber grows some distance from the central stem, and is located by the crack it causes on the surface. This part of the hunt isn’t rocket science. The trick, which I’ve never mastered, is how to tell whether the yam is the size of a walnut or the size of a football.

Most of the visitors are showing signs of over-exposure. Camping, cooking meals on an open fire, and showering every few days is tough, and the wind is wearing people down.

I’m not attempting to do any work myself. Paying attention to the needs of the group, and anticipating how best to make sure they get to experience a cross section of this place I’ve brought them to, is taking up most of the space in my mind.

Wandering with Intent by Kim Mahood (Scribe).

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