Letter from Kuching: Want to get uncomfortable? This is the place
23/03/2023 by Yeoh Siew Hoon

From the unexpected to its crafts and cuisine, Sarawak is an undiscovered jewel

When I told an American friend I was in Kuching, Sarawak, last week, she asked me, what do you do in Kuching?

It was a question that made me pause. Instead of firing off the usual quick responses we do these days on messaging apps, I wanted to let the question sink in and do this town in the East Malaysian state of Sarawak justice.

Nestled in the corner of the island of Borneo, Sarawak is often overshadowed by its more famous cousin, Sabah. In fact, Sabah got a mention in Booking.com’s latest global study on traveller trends, with the report highlighting this other East Malaysian state as a trending destination in one of its trends “Delight In The Discomfort Zone”.

To which a Kuching friend quipped over dinner, “Oh, come to Kuching, we can make you very uncomfortable indeed.”

So what do you do in Kuching?

Its history, geography and diverse culture sets Sarawak apart from the rest. Photo: Serena Zhang

Well, you come for its unique sense of humour and character. Kuching-ites have a brand of humour that can be as sarcastic as it is self-effacing. This is a town that accepts its quirks and peculiarities with a shrug and a smile, and its strengths with an inner pride – mostly over how different it is from the rest of Malaysia.

Its history – the rule of the White Rajahs; its culture – 27 ethnic tribes; and its geography – mighty rivers, rainforests, caves – sets it apart.

And when you live in a town which means “Cat” and no one really knows why, you learn to be sanguine about stuff.

You come for its unexpectedness. When we arrived at the Marian Boutique Lodging House, the Chinese temple next door was staging a rather loud and noisy “getai” (theatre). “Oh, I didn’t expect this,” said my Chinese friend from Shanghai, making her first visit to Kuching. “So Chinese.”

Then, at dawn, we were woken up by the call of the muezzin from the nearby mosque.

Along the Kuching waterfront, the best place to observe Kuching life, Disney and Marvel characters appear at random and pose for photos with you. I spotted Spiderman, a mutant ninja turtle and Mickey Mouse – I felt I was on a Hollywood movie set.

I wonder if this is a post-pandemic trend that came from too much streaming of movies.

You come for its crafts.

Few people know this but Kuching was awarded ‘International City of Crafts’ by the World Crafts Council (WCC) in 2019, joining places such as Jaipur in India, Yogyakarta in Indonesia (for Batik), Donghai in China (for Crystal), Bornholm in Denmark and the Outer Hebrides in Scotland (for Harris Tweed).

The Borneo Cultures Museum, the second largest in South-east Asia, which opened in March 2022 is a good place to visit to understand and appreciate the rich and diverse culture of this land.

The Ranee Artisan Gallery, over two floors, showcases art and craft from close to 100 retailers. Curated by founder Rosemarie Wong, who’s behind The Ranee boutique hotel and Marian Boutique Lodging House, the retail store works with local artisans across Borneo.

One of her most successful craft projects, which got the attention of the World Craft Council, is an upcycling programme which turned fan covers into colourful trays, using traditional methods such as beading and weaving. My words cannot do this project justice but this photo might.

An international city of crafts: An old fan cover (in centre of photo) and how it’s transformed into trays of all shapes, sizes and colours.

You come for its food. Again, not many people know this but Kuching was conferred “Creative City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO in 2022, recognising its unique culinary heritage.

At City Hall, there is an exhibition explaining why it won this award, one of which states, “We eat things that no one else eats – sago worms, midin/paku (local vegetables), durian flowers, cangkok manis (another local vegetable known as “manicai)” and “we cook in interesting and unique ways”.

Sarawak laksa, the most iconic of its food heritage.

Sarawak Laksa is probably the most iconic dish along with “kolo mee” but the food scene has certainly flourished over the last three years as young entrepreneurs set up cafes, bars, restaurants and different kinds of eateries to cater to changing needs and tastes.

One good example is the Kantin at the Granary, which sits within the Marian. When Rosemarie Wong was looking for a new operator to take over the warehouse space on her premises, she chose a Chinese-language media company who had no experience in food & beverage, Sarawak Eye. “They were just so passionate and enthusiastic and I liked their concept of showcasing local food in a different, modern way,” she said.

 

Their media savviness has

Nasi kerabu at the Kantin – local food with a modern twist.

made the Kantin the social talk of the town, and its media reach has brought in new customers to the Marian.

 

A good example of an unorthodox collaboration that’s paid off for both parties.

Beyond Kuching, you come for its fresh air, open spaces, nature and wildlife. At 124,450 km², Sarawak is about 90% of the size of Peninsular Malaysia. National parks, rivers, mountains, caves, valleys, highlands – you name it, Sarawak has it.

And so, yes, you can get as uncomfortable as you like. I remember a visit I made to the Ulu Ai region in the 1980s where I stayed in a longhouse lodge with no electricity and there was a huge thunderstorm that night, with thunder and lightning crashing all around us. I jumped out of bed, stepped on my glasses and was blind for the next few days.

All I saw were hundreds of shades of green. You don’t get more uncomfortable than that.

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