Without This Ancient Italian Sausage, We Wouldn't Have Bologna

If you've ever bitten into a slice of bologna and wondered, "What even is bologna?" — well, the answer is a bit complicated. Its history goes back almost 2,000 years to Italy, where bologna's fancier ancestor, mortadella, was born. Long before it became a staple of deli counters and school lunches, mortadella was central to Bologna, Italy, prized for its rich history and careful craftsmanship.

Mortadella's story starts in ancient Rome, where it wasn't just food — it was fuel. Roman soldiers once relied on the cold cut to keep them fed during long campaigns. Artifacts in Bologna's Museo Civico Archeologico show how this cured meat was a symbol of regional pride, feeding armies and citizens alike for centuries. Though there are different types of mortadella, the kind made in Bologna stood out. By the Middle Ages, its production dominated Bologna's economy, employing thousands of workers and turning the city into the epicenter of Italian charcuterie.

Mortadella was meticulously crafted, often containing finely ground pork mixed with visible cubes of lard, pistachios, and spices. Over time, the guild of charcuterie makers in Bologna — the Salaroli — rose to power, enforcing strict standards for production. Their influence was so profound that in 1661, Pope Paul V issued a decree protecting mortadella's authenticity. Those who dared to produce counterfeit versions faced severe consequences, underscoring its importance in Italian culture.

The American evolution of mortadella

By the 20th century, mortadella's story took a turn as industrialization swept through Europe. What had once been a labor-intensive delicacy became a mass-produced product. When Italian immigrants brought mortadella to the United States, they adapted the recipe, using cheaper meat cuts to meet American tastes and budgets. This reimagined version became bologna — a smoother, more uniform sausage that was easier to make and more affordable for American families — partly why bologna is so cheap. So, when it comes to the ancient origins of the bologna sandwich, we can thank mortadella for laying the groundwork.

The transformation from mortadella to bologna wasn't just about accessibility; it was also shaped by U.S. regulations. According to the USDA, bologna is categorized alongside hot dogs and must have a uniform texture. Unlike mortadella's varied composition, bologna is a smooth, finely processed sausage made from ground meat. This simplified version found its place in lunchboxes across America, while mortadella kept its distinct character and stayed rooted in its Italian heritage.

Still, it's impossible to separate bologna from the centuries-old tradition that inspired it. Mortadella may not have become an everyday staple in the U.S., but its influence on American food culture is undeniable — showing how an ancient Italian sausage evolved to fit a new world, even if its story is often overshadowed by its much simpler cousin.