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You may not be familiar with the name Gurami Oniani. But if you’ve traveled and eaten across Eastern Europe, you just might be. Oniani runs his own hospitality company, Guliani Group and since 2011, he’s opened over 30 restaurants across Tbilisi and Moscow, from Georgian fast food to traditional modern cuisine. As reported by Forbes in 2023, Oniani was planning on expanding overseas, with the first stop in New York. For him, the move was less about expanding his footprint, but more about putting Georgian culture on a worldwide stage.
“During my stay in emigration, I actively thought about the importance of increasing the awareness of Georgia,” he said. “The reason for this was that almost no one around me knew anything about Georgian culture, cuisine, wine or other details about Georgia.” Committed to sharing Georgia’s rich heritage through food, Oniani introduced Laliko to the West Village on March 16.
Inside, the space pays homage to the Georgian homeland. Designed by Surgala Studios, the white-washed and heavy-wooden interior features velvet couches and benches, backgammon illustrated on tables that nod to the region's beloved game of nardi and murals painted by Georgian artists that tell the story of the region. Another touch lies underneath the restaurant's wooden communal—a 200-year-old pardagi carpet meant to showcase Georgia’s deep-rooted textile heritage.
The food shares the richness and splendor of Georgian cuisine. Care is definitely taken into consideration here, so much so that Laliko dedicates a chef to each of its classic dishes: khachapuri and khinkali. Previously working at Oniani’s first restaurant in Russia, Khinkali House in Moscow, chef Jimi Kurtanidze trained under Gia Agirba, the creator of the dough-less cheese boat known as adjaruli. Chef Kurtandize cooks up the classic version plus a few twists with mint and another even cheesier version with more cheese baked on top. As for khinkali, or Georgian dumplings, you can find chef Ruslan (Ucha) Giorgberidze handmaking dough and filling it with traditional beef and pork to mushroom with a truffle sauce. Likely to be the next showstopper on the scene is the Mother Khinkali. Reminiscent of a nesting doll, this giant dumpling hides with six smaller dumplings inside.
Heartier fare continues with Chicken in Chkmeruli or blackberry sauce, Chashushuli or a rich beef stew with tomatoes and bell peppers and Kupati, a grilled Georgian sausage served with celery root purée and pomegranate. Classic Georgian skewers are also on the menu as are vegetarian dishes including the stewed bean dish, Lobio, and crispy cauliflower bites covered in a walnut-cilantro sauce. Desserts include Korkoti, an ice cream dish with grains, honey, and nuts and the layered pastry, Napoleon.
Small-batched Georgian wine producers can be found on the beverage menu as can Georgia’s iconic spirit, chacha. The grape-based spirit is found in many cocktails such as the Strawberry Fields with chacha, strawberry, honey, and lime and the Tangerine Dreams with chacha citron, mandarin, lemon and a splash of Tabasco.
So go out there and discover the beauty that is Georgian cuisine with a visit to Laliko.