I ate at one of UK's newest Michelin star restaurants where a three course lunch costs £30

The Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2025 was revealed last month, and this year a newcomer had arrived on the list - Surrey restaurant Starling. Nestled on Esher High Street, the dining spot opened its doors just last summer and was awarded it's first Michelin Star within months.

The establishment joins other Surrey restaurants to have received the accolade: Latymer in Bagshot, The Tudor Pass in Egham and Sorrel in Dorking. Surrey Live journalist Laura Nightingale was eager to try it out. Upon arriving, Laura's first thought was: "it wasn't at all what I expected". Gone were the rigid white tablecloths, stringent dress code or lavish tasting menu that many associate with fine dining.

Nor was it nestled within a luxurious five-star hotel, surrounded by acres of meticulously groomed gardens. Instead, it was a bistro with an open kitchen, situated along a bustling high street. This gamechanging spot left Laura "incredibly curious to find out what appeared like a seemingly casual spot, was bestowed such an illustrious award only a few months after opening". It didn't take long for her to understand why judges deemed this neighbourhood eatery worthy of national recognition.

Led by Great British Menu winner Nick Beardshaw, the food and drink served were as innovative, dramatic and refined as Laura had expected, but presented in a more relaxed environment.

"My immediate impression was that Starling reminded me of a Parisian bistro", wrote the reporter. "The restaurant was warm, compact and buzzing with diners on a Wednesday evening, and there wasn't a table empty in Surrey's most talked about new dining spot."

Laura and her guest arrived at 7.30pm to sample the menu, noting straight away that the tables were somewhat closely packed, but that that contributed to the lively atmosphere.

Much like a quintessential French bistro nestled under the Eiffel Tower, Starling focuses on impeccably prepared home-cooked dishes using straightforward, fresh ingredients. Surprisingly, even steak and chips featured on the menu.

Laura "wasn't expecting hearty classics like this", but noted that "it only fascinated me more as we munched through a bowl of crusty bread - Rhodes Campaillou to be exact". The rustic, French-inspired loaf boasted a rough, crunchy crust and a light, open-textured, malty centre.

The menu showcased a few dishes that Chef Beardshaw used to impress judges on a popular BBC TV show, with the first that Laura ordered being the cryptically named 'A Moon Shaped Pool'.

Writing about the dish, Laura said: "The name referred to a painting on the wall hanging up behind me, and when the peculiar dish came out, it was peak Michelin cookery. It was innovative, dramatic and above all, tasted sensational."

Laura's "lovely and very professional waiter" poured a jug of "what appeared to be a thick creamy liquid over a grey film". Unsurprisingly, "it didn't look overly appetising", but turned out to be the "glossiest green Thai curry gravy I had ever had", according to the journalist. With succulent line caught Cornish cod cheek and marinated cucumber, it was an indulgent dish that had been crafted with skill.

Given the menu's focus on seasonal ingredients, it undergoes regular tweaks. During Laura's visit, eight main courses were available, half of which were steaks. The fillet from Stokes Marsh Farm, with triple-cooked chips, proved irresistible.

Laura's verdict was only one of praise: "The hunk of beef was impeccably seasoned and the piping hot chips were ridiculously crunchy on the outside and fluffy in the centre".

The famous 'Balloon Girl' dessert was the piece de resistance. Featured on The Great British Menu, the sweet was housed within a grand, gold-painted wooden frame, and referenced the Banksy artwork of the same name.

According to the reporter, the dish was the highlight of our evening, and provided the wow factor". The beautiful raspberry cheesecake heart and chocolate torte were served with nostalgic sugar paper strips, and Laura declared it "divine".

In summary, Laura told readers that: "Blending innovative cookery with home comforts, Starling really is different to other Michelin star restaurants".

Thanks to its high street location, its affordable £30 three-course lunch menu, and its relaxed atmosphere, locals who may never have thought about dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant can now savour a taste of luxury right on their doorstep.