Lake Michigan ice is breaking up in Door County, Wisconsin. The shanty towns are coming down, but the lake was covered in ice just a few months ago.
Located on a strip of land jutting into the lake, Door County gets the brunt of bad weather. During an early February visit, the wind blew (50 m.p.h.), the temperature fell (9 degrees and colder) and, the next day, it snowed.
For desert dwellers, these make for pleasant memories to revisit in the summer. At the time, though, not so much.
Wisconsin has much to offer in the depths of winter. The towns along the shore are charming, even under a foot of snow; the air is fresh, and Lake Michigan is stunning.
The primary reason is the people. They greet visitors with such a warm welcome that the cold is hardly noticeable.
Additionally, seeing fir trees in their green winter coats is refreshing.
If the lake beckons, visitors must fly into Green Bay. The city is small, with just over 100,000 residents, according to current data.
Rob Hults, founder and executive director of the Open Door Bird Sanctuary, holds Mesa, the golden eagle. Hults admits he had to practice a bit to hold Mesa, as he’s 10 pounds.
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Start your trip to the peninsula with a visit to the charming town of Sturgeon Bay, the birthplace of the U.S. Coast Guard. The newly remodeled Door County Maritime Museum shares its history, as well as that of Lake Michigan and the area’s human habitation.
The museum’s design is ingenious. Upon entering, visitors watch a 15-minute film about Door County. Guests then take the elevator to the 10th floor, which offers a stunning view of docked commercial ships awaiting their required inspections. Shanties dot the lake; however, fishermen were nowhere in sight due to yesterday’s harsh conditions that cracked the ice.
After soaking in the view, the museum tour begins. Visitors walk down a set of stairs and stop on each floor, which follows region’s history. The first stop is floor nine, which shows how the lakes and topography were formed.
Radar, the barred owl, is another Open Door Bird Sanctuary resident. Schedule a private tour and learn her story.
Thus, it traverses history, with each floor dedicated to a different era. One floor focuses entirely on the numerous shipwrecks caused by the perilous nearby waters.
“You know what the No. 1 cause of shipwrecks is, right?” executive director Bob Desh asked a group of tourists.
One bright soul said, “Stupidity.”
“Yes,” he said. “Yes. You are the only one who’s ever gotten that right.”
After a few hours at the museum, visit the well-stocked gift shop on the ground floor.
The next stop is the Open Door Bird Sanctuary, where guests can meet Radar, a barred owl, and Mesa, a 10-year-old golden eagle. The 10-pound Mesa came to the sanctuary because he was unable to fly, and staff soon discovered arthritis in his shoulders.
Visitors next stroll through the building that houses smaller raptors, such as American Kestrels (North America’s smallest falcons) and Merlins (a small, fierce falcon — also known as lady hawks — that use surprise attacks to bring down small songbirds and shorebirds). The tethered birds are being rehabbed.
On a sunny morning, after a snowstorm, the air is clear. There is no bad view of Lake Michigan from shorefront accommodations.
Many cannot fly away, which is why they are at the rehabilitation center. During this visit, feeding time was approaching, and dead rodents were lined up, ready for the chop. Raptors need to consume bone, gristle and fur in addition to the meat.
Private tours teach guests about the birds’ stories and how they came to the sanctuary.
Founder and executive director Rob Hults explained that the birds will likely remain there for an extended period.
“In the wild, they can live over 30 years; with good human care they can live over 50,” Hults said. “So, when we commit to giving a home to a bird like (Mesa), it’s not because it would be cool to have one for a few years. It’s literally a lifetime commitment.”
Private donations and volunteers keep the sanctuary running. Hults is an exception.
Sometimes, when a tourist town is in the off-season, residents must get creative in finding ways to keep body and soul together. No one is more inventive than the owners of Door County Kayak Tours, where adventurous individuals can rent electric bikes to explore the area, but caution is advised. If it’s off-season, the roads are likely to be covered in snow. Another option is an Airstream RV, fashioned into a traveling sauna, which can be rented by the hour. This is perfect for polar bear plungers’ post-swim heat.
Visitors to Door County looking for a hearty meal should try the carbohydrate-laden mac and cheese pizza.
After this, head to Egg Harbor, a charming little town on the Lake Michigan shore. Guests and residents can relax with baby goat yoga or visit a distillery or breweries. There are also plenty of vineyards to explore.
However, most of these were closed for the winter, so shopping was in order.
Egg Harbor shopping could fill an afternoon, the same with the other villages and towns up and down the peninsula. Each offers something different.
From clothes to art to games and toys to antiques, this is a shopper’s paradise, but be prepared to drive.
For those with a sweet tooth, there’s Door County Candy, a housemade candy and fudge shop on Sturgeon Bay’s main drag. Fudge isn’t the only treat: Penny candy is on the shelves, too.
Tidy orchards are abundant, as tart cherry products support the local industry.
To thrive, the trees need pleasant summers and harsh winters — Door County offers both. Look for tart cherry salsa, mustard and cider, dried tart cherries with and without nuts, barbecue sauce and horseradish, and cherry coffee.
Besides this, there are a multitude of lighthouses to see, parks and trails to hike and bike.
Stay
Guests cannot sit outside and admire beautiful Lake Michigan when it’s cold and covered in snow. However, winter doesn’t last forever.
Book a stay at Sandvik House in Jacksonport for a pleasant summer vacation, managed by DoCo Vacation Rentals and Property Management. The unassuming front belies the amazing wood-trimmed interior, the wall of windows and the Lake Michigan view. The home is spacious and airy, with four bedrooms and two bathrooms to accommodate eight.
If someone wishes to book this place and prepare a Thanksgiving meal, the kitchen is equipped for the task.
In the backyard, there’s a fire pit and ample seating with easy access to the shore, which is just steps away. If water, sun and relaxation are on the agenda, this is the place.
Eat
Start your day with a steaming cup of coffee or cocoa at The Gnoshery, a delightful board game café in Sturgeon Bay. There are plenty of options on the creative breakfast and lunch menus. The Dave breakfast sandwich piles juicy ham, Swiss cheese, a fluffy egg and pineapple ($6.50); the Firehammer breakfast is a hearty turkey and crispy bacon meal, with sauteed red peppers, onions and jalapenos. A fried egg tries to “keep the peace, but the melty pepper jack cheese adds another layer of heat” ($7.25).
The Garden Gnome Omelet sees three fluffy eggs with spinach, tomatoes and crisp onions under a blanket of cheese ($10.50).
The front area is a relaxed spot to sit and enjoy a meal. Place an order at the counter, and spend a few minutes perusing the games, which are available for purchase.
Later in the day, check out a supper club, something West Coasters may find peculiar. A couple of things distinguish them from regular restaurants. They specialize in home cooking, the bar is not in the dining area, and they have a specialty drink.
At the Nightingale Supper Club, this drink is a classic Wisconsin old-fashioned ($7). Second to this is the Door County cosmo, made with Door County cherry juice ($11). If these do not suit, there is a full bar in the front room with talented bartenders. Steak is prevalent on the menu. Choose from a 14-ounce ribeye, an 8-ounce beef tenderloin ($36) or a 10-, 16- or 20-ounce prime rib. The price starts at $32.
Even in the winter in Door County, Wisconsin, visitors and residents may rent an electric bike for a brisk ride on snowy roads.
Some prefer to eat fish, and Nightingale can accommodate. Look for a 10-ounce, locally caught, grilled white fish. A 15-ounce cod is $26, while the 8-ounce salmon is $27. Sides are a la carte, with options like parsley, buttered red potatoes ($3), sour cream chive wedges ($3) and apple sauce ($2).
Like the sides, some desserts vary by day.
If a picnic is on the itinerary, stop by Henriksen’s Fisheries and Fish House. The place is small, but the food is mighty. A quick bit of trivia: salmon is not native to Lake Michigan. However, smoked salmon is available from this outlet. Also, choose from freshly caught boneless whitefish filets; housemade whitefish cakes; cream cheese and whitefish or goat cheese and whitefish spread; or Henriksen’s rustic-style whitefish soup. Fish around the freezer and find basics like scallops and shrimp. The intimidating but sweet Capt. Bob Henriksen helms this working fish house.
Other Door County recommendations include the Bluefront Cafe, a South American-influenced eatery (try the fries); or Scaturo’s Baking Company and Café’s wraps, full breakfasts and freshly baked bread.
Breakfast, lunch and snacks are available at Door County Coffee Company, which roasts and sells its own coffee beans and other specialties in an adjacent space.
The One Barrel Brewing Co. Taproom, Egg Harbor, boasts an expansive beer garden. Not in the mood? Try Pizza Bros. Both are in the same building.
Finally, there’s Della Porta, where the owner is from Sicily. The delectable pasta and pizza are made in-house.
