Beyond Seattle: Discovering Spokane’s Urban Wilderness and Historic Charm

Criss-crossing Washington State from the metropolitan city of Seattle to the other metropolitan city of Spokane is a quick trip of 4.25 hours over 279 miles. Or it’s a lingering adventure with intriguing stops.

Either way, you’ll enjoy mountain peaks and waterfalls as you make your way to the city nestled in the northeast corner of Washington State. Stately green pines dominate the skyline until farther across the pass where alders, cottonwoods, and golden larches lead the way to the rolling hills of Eastern Washington.

Then, the topography becomes trim farmland mixed among the wild sage.

Taking the time to enjoy the exceptional scenery makes the trip worthwhile. There are two major passes between the two cities, and both passes cross the Cascade Mountains where there are ski areas.

In the wintertime, stop and have a cup of hot chocolate as you witness the skiers swoosh down the mountain. Summertime offers rides up the chairlifts to gaze at the rainbow of wildflowers below.

Snoqualmie Falls and Snoqualmie Pass

We’ll choose Snoqualmie Pass first. You’ll primarily be on I-90, and you’ll soon arrive at Snoqualmie Falls. This is a definite stop. You’ll find the roaring Snoqualmie Falls breathtaking, and the most delicious way to do that is to have brunch at Snoqualmie Falls Lodge.

The fun item on the menu is a biscuit, not merely because it will be fresh and flaky—it will—but it’s the flair with which it’s presented that’s appealing. Servers drop honey onto the biscuit from 6 feet high and never miss their target.

You’ll probably need reservations for brunch, but if you need to wait, take the opportunity to visit the town of Snoqualmie. It’s just a hop down the road and is home to the Northwest Railway Museum. A fascinating display of old trains in varying stages of repair parallels its main street. It’s worth the diversion.

Accomodations in Snoqualmie

Discovering North Bend and Beyond

Next is the equally intriguing town of North Bend because it’s home to Twede’s Café. Renamed the Double R Diner for the TV series, Twin Peaks, Twede’s has kept the décor from the series. Photos from the shoots at this location line the back wall.

We visited just after David Lynch, the director of Twin Peaks, passed. Memorial bouquets covered the restaurant.

There are other small towns like Fall City, Duvall, and Carnation that line the route to Spokane along 90. Remlinger Farms in Carnation is open to the public for six months of the year with amusement rides, entertainment, U-pick fields, and corn mazes.

Accomodations in North Bend

Flatlands and Eastern Towns

Once you’re across the pass, the land flattens out, and the western towns of Cle Elum and Ellensburg pop up. The Ellensburg Rodeo in late August and early September is worth noting. It is second in size only to the Calgary Stampede in Calgary, Alberta, and is one of America’s top 25 rodeos.

Eventually, the basalt cliffs that surround Spokane come into view. If you’ve taken most of the day to relish the drive, you’ll want to spend the night in Spokane.

Of course, there are many options, but the one to choose is the Davenport Hotel, a must-stay for history buffs. Started as the Davenport Waffle Foundry in 1908, the hotel expanded in 1914 to embrace the timeless elegance of early 20th-century architecture.

Its grand ballrooms stand as silent witnesses to the hotel’s 110th anniversary.

Another option for a luxury stay is the Spokane Tribe Casino near the airport. The private Spokane Club now offers rooms to non-members. Its setting along the river makes it most appealing.

Exploring Spokane’s History and Culture

Remnants of Spokane’s history are abundant in buildings like Steam Plant Square as well as some on Main Street. Revival Tea House leads visitors to its cellar, where a former speakeasy thrived.

Another former speakeasy, Durkin’s, with a speakeasy-style nook downstairs, serves creative cocktails. Blue, green, and dusty white bottles rescued from the Spokane River hang from the rafters in the old Saranac Commons.

The renovation of Main Street and much of downtown occurred in 1974 when Spokane hosted the International Exposition on the Environment, Expo. The Spokane River’s dramatic waterfalls became the focus of Expo.

The deteriorating train station moved to another location and 100 acres of paved pathways morphed into Riverfront Park. The park features the restored Looff Carrousel and SkyRide gondola. Now, the park links to the nearly 40-mile Centennial State Park Trail that follows the river and ends in Idaho.

Another noteworthy park in Spokane is Manito, an urban oasis that features five diverse garden areas. Duncan Gardens in Manito is a manicured European Renaissance-style garden with vibrant floral displays. Fountains and gazebos dot its walking and bike paths.

When to Visit Spokane

Spokane’s snowy winters are no hindrance because covered walkways connect 15 blocks of downtown. Slightly south of downtown is Browne’s Addition, home to many of the original mansions. There, you’ll find the Campbell House, built in 1898 for a silver baron.

It’s listed on the registry of National Historic Places, and registering at the Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture includes admission. The museum embraces the region’s indigenous history and rotates arts and exhibits.

If you’re pondering when to visit Spokane, here are two options: Hoopfest, the world’s largest 3-on-3 basketball tournament, is usually in June. It’s also an outdoor festival with shopping, food, and interactive entertainment.

The Lilac Bloomsday Run, also known as Bloomsday, an annual road race, is predictably on the first Sunday of May. The run is 12 km (7.456 mi) and averages 38,000 participants.

Shopping and Natural Beauty in Spokane

River Park Square is a destination for all the shops you love or for browsing at Auntie’s Book Store, a store you’ll get to love. It’s also a treasured site where you can study stately historic architecture.

Spokane is an urban setting that offers natural scenery where you’ll watch bald eagles soar over the Spokane River regardless of what features of the city appeal to you.

Heading Back via Stevens Pass

Now you’re set to travel back to Seattle via Stevens Pass. You’ll follow US-2, passing through small towns like Skykomish, Monroe, and Snohomish and into the mountains to Wenatchee, Cashmere, and Leavenworth. You’ve already had an adventuresome trip, but if the only stop you make is Leavenworth, you’ll be glad you did.

Leavenworth and Final Stops

Leavenworth is a Bavarian-style village with Alpine-style buildings and restaurants serving German food. Have some brats and kraut and wander around this charming town. The Nutcracker Museum displays thousands of nutcrackers, some dating back centuries.

On the Wenatchee River, Waterfront Park is a habitat for ospreys and eagles. Leavenworth is a destination for weekend getaways from Seattle for good reason.

There are a few more towns you’ll encounter before reaching Seattle. Tiny Skykomish has a population of 161, and Monroe is at the confluence of the Skykomish, Snohomish, and Snoqualmie rivers near the Cascade foothills.

Both offer an abundance of outdoor activities with water sports being the draw in Monroe. If you’ve packed your fly rod, you’ll be in heaven.

Regardless of what you’ve packed, you’ll have an enriching trip as you take time to experience the best of the Northwest.

When You Go

Where to stay in Spokane:

• Davenport Hotel
• The Spokane Club
• Spokane Tribe Casino

Where to eat in Spokane:

• Clinkerdagger
• Anthony’s
• Madeline’s Bakery
• Durkin’s

Significant stops between Spokane and Seattle:

• Leavenworth
• Snoqualmie Falls

Author Bio: Marcia McGreevy Lewis (she/her) lives in Seattle and is a retired feature writer for a Washington newspaper. She enjoys committing her adventures to writing for literary journals, magazines, travel sites and books. Reach her on Facebook and Instagram/Threads: marcialewis25, Twitter: @McGreevyLewis, Bluesky: @mmcgreevylewis.bsky.social and Linkedin: marcia-lewis. Clips: https.//www.gravatar.com/profile/about Display name: mmcgreevylewis

Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:

• Spokane, Washington: Three days, Three Ways in the Inland Northwest
• The Surprising Sophistication of Spokane, Washington

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