A medieval market town, just a 90-minute journey from Gloucester, is brimming with independent shops, intriguing landmarks and charming cafes perfect for outdoor dining in the spring. Ludlow, with its unique half-timbered buildings and riverside setting, could easily be mistaken for Stratford-upon-Avon at first glance.
Situated slightly further afield on the edge of the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it's an ideal location for walkers seeking a more bustling base. Even without considering its stunning rural surroundings, the town centre alone is worth a visit.
During a weekend trip in March, we broke up the journey with a stop at the equally picturesque town of Ross-on-Wye in Herefordshire. We stopped for lunch at Truffles Delicatessen, a deli offering sandwiches, enormous cheese scones and other light snacks, all enjoyed with a prime view of the impressive cheese counter.
After exploring the shops and a few galleries, we continued our journey to Ludlow, travelling north along the A-roads through quaint villages such as Much Marcle and Hope-under-Dinmore. Before long, we were passing a petrol station and industrial warehouses, signalling our arrival into Ludlow, with the tower of St Laurence Church soon emerging above the rooftops.
We were staying nearby so it wasn't until the next day that we headed into the town centre, making a beeline for the 11th century landmark that is Ludlow Castle to begin our day. Adult admission is charged at £9, which did seem a bit steep - but unlike some historic ruins, this is no pile of rocks.
The castle is still in an impressive state and you can wander into various 'rooms' (albeit with no roof) and read about the purpose they each used to serve.
There are also a couple of towers to climb, which I didn't attempt but was told there are gorgeous views of the countryside from the top. For kids there is a giant throne-like wooden chair to sit in, and a red dragon sculpture tucked in one corner with no explanation as to its presence - presumably not an authentic feature of castle life but a fun addition nonetheless.
There is a cafe on site but we walked back out into the town centre for a mid-morning snack, browsing the bustling Ludlow Market right next to the castle on a Saturday.
There were plants, rugs, clothes, jewellery, homemade jams and plenty of other tempting produce, but eventually it was a French bakery stall that kept our attention.
We shared a massive puff pastry palmiere which only cost £1 something and was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.
Next up was a spot of shopping, and we were impressed by the array of independents we passed.
There were some gorgeous homeware and gift shops, a chocolatier, a cheese shop that could be sniffed out from down the street, vintage shops, a couple of gallery and craft shops, a record shop and, perhaps most striking, a big lifestyle store called Bodenhams which dates back to 1860.
Boots and Joules were two of the very few chain stores we walked past, as well as a few charity shops worth rummaging in - I was chuffed to find a £2 pair of Monsoon trousers in one of them. If shopping isn't for you then there are also some great walks you can begin from the town centre, including the 'Bread Walk' route which goes down to the River Teme and offers great views of the castle.
If you walk up an appetite then head back to the many cafes in the town centre, although be warned that many fill up quickly due to their size. We actually struggled to find somewhere for a sit-down sandwich - there was a huge queue outside the highly rated sandwich shop Vaughans, but they only do takeaway.
We also tried the highly-rated deli Harp Lane Deli which has seating outside for sunny days, and some seating upstairs, but again it was really busy.
Eventually we ended up in a larger cafe that I won't name, as I'm about to moan about the prices - £10.50 for a tiny cheese and chutney toastie! Afterwards we walked past a pub called The Angel which apparently serves amazing Spanish food, and wished we'd held on a big longer to appease our hunger.
Also worth a mention is an attraction that's not in the town centre but is definitely worth a detour if you're in the area, Ludlow Farm Shop. It's a massive operation with separate buildings for the shop, restaurant, takeaway cafe, garden centre (although we were told that's relocating soon), gallery and even a gin distillery. There's a well-rated pub next door too.
This feature was originally published in March 2024
